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Everything about this bracelet is built rather than applied. Alternating links, some ribbed like fluted columns, others opened into paired scrolls, are organized around raised pyramidal bosses whose faceted planes catch light the way a stone dome does. The construction is modular and hinged, each unit substantial in its own right, so that the whole reads as architecture translated to the wrist: heavy, precise, and visually immediate. Within the output of the Taller Borda it stands as a clear statement of that workshop's architectural approach to the link bracelet, in which geometry and volume do the ornamental work.
The design language belongs to Héctor Aguilar's Taxco workshop, established in the former Casa Borda in 1939, where jewelry was conceived with the discipline of a builder. Solid sheet is scored and pierced rather than chased; the scrolled elements are cut cleanly and set against the vertical ribbing so that positive and negative space alternate down the length of the band. The pyramidal centers give the piece its sculptural weight, rising from flat ground in crisp, four-sided facets, while the hinging between links lets a substantial object move comfortably on the arm.
Morrill's study of the Aguilar workshop, Silver Masters of Mexico, documents the range of the Taller Borda's bracelet production in these decades, from amethyst-set cuffs to copper and silver wirework, and this piece sits squarely within that world of heavy, hand-fabricated sterling of the 1940s and early 1950s. It carries the qualities that define the shop at its best: mass without clumsiness, repetition without monotony, and a design that is entirely legible at a glance.
Museum of Mexican Silver. “Pyramidal-and-Silver-Ball Link Bracelet.” Catalog no. MoMS-001968. https://museumofmexicansilver.com/pieces/aguilar-pyramidal-and-silver-ball-link-bracelet-23
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Héctor Aguilar
Armadillo Bracelet
Sterling silver