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This bird brooch is one of the liveliest expressions of the figural imagination Héctor Aguilar brought to the Taller Borda. Where much of the workshop's fame rests on its architectural hollowware and its geometric jewelry, brooches like this one show Aguilar working in a more animated, almost calligraphic register. The bird is built from swelling silver planes—a fan-shaped ruff or crest breaking forward over the head, a ribbed and beaded breast, and a long tail that sweeps back in a single confident curl—so that the whole creature reads as a piece of arrested motion. The spiral eye and the row of applied beads down the breast are the kind of small, deliberate accents the Taller Borda used to give a flat silhouette texture and life. It is a design that prizes silhouette and gesture over anatomical fidelity, and in that it declares its modernism.
The craftsmanship is characteristically substantial. The forms are worked in weighty silver with contrasting matte and burnished surfaces, and the beaded and ribbed passages are handwrought applications rather than cast detail, consistent with the workshop practice Morrill documents in which Aguilar's masters were first modeled and then executed by his maestros under close direction (Morrill, Héctor Aguilar, 1996). The layering is deliberate: the fanned crest overlaps the head, the beaded breast sits proud of the body, and the tail lifts away in a separate plane, so that a small brooch acquires real depth of relief. The result holds together as a bold silver drawing in three dimensions, legible at a distance yet rewarding on the hand. Its scale and flat back make it eminently wearable, and the sweeping tail gives the composition a dynamic asymmetry that keeps it from settling into mere decoration.
Placed within the Taxco Silver Renaissance, the bird brooch reflects the same nationalist and modernist currents that ran through the movement Aguilar helped found when he established the Taller Borda in 1939 (Hougart, Mexican Silver Trade & Hallmarks, 2018; Morrill, Mexican Silver, 1994). Mexican Modernism encouraged artists across media to draw on indigenous and popular imagery, and the stylized bird—a recurring figure in pre-Columbian and folk art alike—was a natural subject for a silversmith seeking to marry local vocabulary with the clean formal instincts of international modern design. Aguilar's treatment, all sweep and simplification, sits comfortably beside the era's broader taste for streamlined, gestural form.
The figural brooches represent a smaller and less standardized part of the Taller Borda's output than its jewelry lines and its copper and silver hollowware, and while precise production figures are not documented, animal and bird subjects of this ambition appear to have been made in limited numbers rather than as staples. A piece like this earns museum consideration because it demonstrates the range of a maker too often reduced to his geometric work: here Aguilar is playful, gestural, and unmistakably Mexican, turning a folk subject into a small sculpture in sterling. It is a compact record of how the Taxco renaissance let a modernist workshop speak in a vernacular voice without surrendering its formal discipline.
Museum of Mexican Silver. “Bird Brooch.” Catalog no. MoMS-001391. https://museumofmexicansilver.com/pieces/aguilar-pin-bird
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Héctor Aguilar
Sun Brooch
1939-1962
Silver